Paimpol, a small town in Brittany (Bretagne) in northwestern France, is another off-the-beaten-path rural destination, just like my previous posts. So why did I end up here? Well, I lived in ๐Lannion for about six months, and there wasn’t a single decent Asian market there. Despite being a city sustained by major corporations, with all the big supermarket chains like Intermarchรฉ, E.Leclerc, Carrefour, Casino, Lidl, and Grand Frais, plus discount stores like Action (the French equivalent of Daiso) and NOZ with their clearance items – they had everything except an Asian market! Outrageous, right?
I guess it made sense since there were barely any Asians in the area. Anyway, whenever I needed Korean food including kimchi or other Asian ingredients, I had to drive all the way to Guingamp or Saint-Brieuc. Sometimes I’d even make the trek to Rennes for their much larger Asian markets.
The thing is, these occasional trips to Guingamp and Saint-Brieuc felt too mundane if I was just going for groceries. That’s how I discovered Paimpol – it’s located just north of Guingamp, making it a perfect detour.
1. What's Paimpol All About?
The Brittany coastal towns I’ve experienced share similarities while each having their own distinct character. The most striking similarity is the tidal range. Korea’s west coast has extreme tidal differences of about 9-10 meters, but here it’s even more dramatic at 12-16 meters. This is apparently why oysters and mussels thrive here – optimal growing conditions, they say.
In some ways, it reminds me of Korea’s west and south coasts, but when the tide is high, it feels more like the east coast. Lots of rocks and cliffs everywhere. It’s essentially like someone mixed all three of Korea’s coastal regions into one.
So naturally, the first thing that caught my eye was the sea. Unlike my previous travel destinations in Brittany – ๐Perros-Guirec, ๐Cancale, and ๐Saint-Malo – Paimpol’s coastline has a different vibe. This place feels genuinely rural, with absolutely no touristy atmosphere.
The harbor shown above is ๐Loguivy de la Mer, which is quite famous around Paimpol. Small but known for maintaining traditional fishing methods. It’s the kind of place where fewer people walk by than boats floating in the water. A perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of big cities, offering that quiet charm. With stone walls and rocky hills flanking both sides of the coast, it feels more like a tranquil lake than the ocean.
These are views of the nearby sea. So calm and peaceful. The water has receded completely, leaving boats stranded on what looks like dry land. Dark seaweed that couldn’t retreat with the tide lies scattered everywhere.
While walking from the parking area to the coast, I saw countless people carrying kayaks. Apparently, there’s a popular tour route from somewhere around here to Brรฉhat Island (รle de Brรฉhat). They offer courses for everyone from beginners to advanced paddlers, and since the average summer temperature here is 20-25ยฐC, you can enjoy extended water activities even in midsummer.
2. Abbaye de Beauport (Beauport Abbey)
๐Beauport Abbey (Abbaye de Beauport) was the first thing that caught my attention when planning my Paimpol trip. Here’s a quick rundown of its features:
- Historic 13th-century abbey โ Built in 1202 by the Premonstratensian order
- Magnificent Gothic architecture โ Partially preserved arches and stained glass windows
- Unique coastal location โ Beautiful sea views from the abbey grounds
- Historical significance โ Long served as a religious and cultural center
- Protected heritage site โ Designated as a French Historic Monument (Monument Historique)
- Timeless atmosphere โ Haunting beauty within the ruins
- Rich ecological environment โ Gardens and surrounding nature reserve preserved together
- Various cultural programs and exhibitions โ Historical research, art exhibitions, concerts
- Famous photography spot โ Stone buildings harmonizing with sunlight create stunning scenery
- Hiking destination โ Connected to coastal walking paths, popular for trekking
This was once where clergy lived their monastic life, but now it has a strong sense of being ruins – well-maintained ruins, if you will. That’s why there’s an entrance fee. When we visited, it was around 6-7 euros, but as of February 2025, it seems to be temporarily closed.
Following the path leads you to the abbey building’s entrance, which serves as both the ticket office and entry point. To the right stands a precarious building with only its outer walls remaining – a fascinating harmony between ruin and preservation.
After buying tickets and entering, you’ll find a small space explaining the site’s history, which then leads to the outdoor gardens. The outdoor area is much more extensive than the indoor spaces, which is why I have loads of outdoor photos but hardly any indoor ones.
It’s a ruin that doesn’t feel ruined. Silent and serene. Ancient trees that have weathered countless years still manage to sprout new buds with determination. Below them stand incomplete arches and magnificent archway openings that tower above human height. The atmosphere is both peaceful and melancholic – quite mysterious.
Looking through one of the archway openings, I could see the sea in the distance. Such a unique view. Despite having a fair number of visitors that day, the extensive gardens made it feel quiet and peaceful.
This is the massive building with only outer walls remaining that we saw before entering – probably what used to be the main cathedral. The flying buttresses remind me of Paris’s Notre-Dame Cathedral or Milan’s Duomo. Must be built in the same Gothic architectural style. The left wall is supported by flying buttresses, which keeps it standing, but the right wall has no such support. Though thick, it looks precarious. Without a roof, it really captures that ruined feeling.
Indoor spaces occasionally appear as well. Once again, I encountered typical Gothic arched structures. Despite being bright daylight, it feels slightly dark and humid inside. The mysterious atmosphere of the ancient abbey permeates the space.
The interior is endlessly dark and somber, while the exterior is endlessly bright and cheerful. A contrast between light and shadow – it feels like a gateway to another world.
Leaving the relatively small garden enclosed by stone walls, you’ll find a larger garden with a long pathway. Young trees that seem recently planted line both sides of the path in neat rows, giving the feeling of a gracious invitation.
Walk a bit further and you’ll reach a garden full of white blossoms. Sheep and cattle graze leisurely on the green grass, so accustomed to tourists that they don’t even bother looking up – such dignified composure.
I hadn’t realized how extensive the grounds were until I got there. Everything is impeccably maintained, which probably justifies the entrance fee given how much care it requires.
It was a perfect day with a gentle breeze and just enough clouds to provide comfortable shade without blocking the sun completely. Grass, trees, and stones glimmering fresh in the sunlight filled these ruins that didn’t feel ruined. This, I think, is the charm of Beauport Abbey.
3. The View Outside the Abbey
After leisurely exploring the abbey, we emerged while it was still bright outside. Viewing from the opposite side of the entrance, the grounds looked quite expansive. Another glimpse of Beauport Abbey revealed itself.
With the abbey behind us, a path leading to the seashore appeared. You could see the blue sea with its floor partially exposed as the tide receded.
I could see the coastal path that’s part of the GR34 hiking trail. Reluctant to leave Paimpol so soon, I walked for quite a while before turning back.
5. Final Thoughts
If I had to describe Paimpol in one phrase, it would be “a tranquil coastal town.” It’s not a resort destination, nor does it boast major attractions, but it’s the kind of place that wins you over with its leisurely pace. Having visited numerous small towns in Brittany, I’m struck by how each region offers such distinct feelings.
The lake-like sea of Loguivy de la Mer and the fairytale-like ambiance of the ruined yet enchanting Beauport Abbey – both were wonderful. You know those places that seem unremarkable with nothing particularly outstanding, yet somehow keep popping back into your thoughts? I think Paimpol is exactly that kind of place.