English1. Finding a Restaurant in Lyon, the Gastronomic Capital
During my trip to Lyon, I visited 🔗Auberge des canuts, an authentic bouchon lyonnais restaurant. In Lyon, France’s gastronomic capital, I was determined to experience traditional bouchon lyonnais cuisine. The prospect of dining out in such a culinary mecca had me buzzing with excitement. I spent hours scouring Google Maps to find the perfect restaurants.
My original restaurant choice was located inside Vieux Lyon’s narrow streets, but it was closed when we arrived. Looking back while writing this review, I discovered it had completely disappeared. That’s how we ended up wandering into Auberge des canuts – a true bouchon lyonnais. It’s located on Place Saint-Jean square with a perfect view of Lyon Cathedral. The location couldn’t be better.
1-1. Restaurant Basic Information
- Opening Hours: 09:00~22:00 (No closing days)
- Address: 8 Pl. Saint-Jean, 69005 Lyon, France
- Official Website: 🔗https://auberge-des-canuts.com/
- Official Reservation Page: 🔗https://auberge-des-canuts.com/reserver-restaurant-bouchon-lyonnais-vieux-lyon/
- Phone: +33986503626
- Google Maps Link (Reservations available): 🔗https://maps.app.goo.gl/wdG6nqTYzJbUvCU79
There’s something unique about their operating hours. You can’t dine throughout their entire opening time. According to Google Maps, lunch is served 11-15h (12-15h on Sundays), and dinner 18-22h. This information might be inaccurate, so it’s best to call directly. Basic English communication works perfectly fine. Of course, my “basic English” isn’t that great either.
1-2. What is a Bouchon?
A bouchon lyonnais refers to traditional Lyon restaurants. They originated in the 17th-18th centuries as small establishments that provided simple meals and wine to travelers arriving by carriage. So when you see “Bouchon” in a restaurant’s name, there’s a high chance you’ll encounter authentic bouchon lyonnais cuisine.
This authentic bouchon lyonnais Auberge des canuts had an average rating of 4.3 stars when I visited, which has since improved to 4.4 stars. It has over 2,600 reviews. At around 30-40 euros per person, it’s a typical mid-range restaurant – neither expensive nor cheap. That’s about 50,000-60,000 won per person, which is quite pricey by Korean standards, but that’s just how European dining prices work.
2. Menu and Our Orders
The official website has a clear menu layout, which I’ve referenced. Since it’s pulled from a URL, the images might not display if updated. In that case, you can visit the official menu page at 🔗https://auberge-des-canuts.com/menus-carte-bouchon-lyonnais/ to see the latest menu.
We sat at an outdoor table and opened the menu. There are two menu options:
- MENU LYONNAIS
- MENU GNAFRON
Both are traditional bouchon lyonnais set menus, but with different food choices and prices. The MENU LYONNAIS offers traditional specialties at 34€ for starter + main + cheese or dessert, or 37€ for starter + main + cheese + dessert.
The MENU GNAFRON is 5 euros more expensive at 39€ and 42€ respectively, featuring more premium ingredients like beef tartare, salmon dishes, and six-hour confit beef chuck.
We ordered two MENU LYONNAIS courses with starter + main + cheese or dessert. The prices seem to have increased since our visit, and the menu selections have changed slightly.
This was our outdoor table view. Both the weather and architecture felt quintessentially European.
3. A Culinary Journey and Battle with My Palate
3-1. Grattons Snack
After ordering, we were served Grattons – fried pork cracklings in a small bowl. They looked appetizing, resembling fried chicken skin. The taste was… well… exactly like fried pork fat. It was greasy oil fried in more oil, with that distinctive pork smell rising up. They say it’s popular as a drinking snack, but there was no alcohol in front of me since I don’t drink. I’m usually the type who finishes everything, including the complimentary bread, but I couldn’t finish even this small portion of fried snacks. Something was seriously wrong. I started worrying about the beef tripe dish I’d ordered for the main course.
3-2. The Starter Parade
The starters arrived. They looked pretty standard. These might be my last decent bites.
The dish with the visible poached egg white in the center is ‘Poached Eggs in Meurette Sauce,’ and the salad loaded with green lentils is ‘Croix-Rousse Caviar.’ In French: Œufs en meurette and Caviar de la croix-rousse. Try reading them if you can.
Poached Eggs in Meurette Sauce
I scraped the plate clean with this one. Meurette sauce is made with red wine, and having tried Bœuf bourguignon and Coq au vin before, the flavor felt familiar. It tasted closer to coq au vin but with a “subtle flavor” – an expression I remember because a server once used it with concern when I ordered coq au vin. For reference, coq au vin ranks in my worst 5 European dishes. Sorry to the French.
But this was delicious. The bacon-like pork and mushrooms absorbed the sauce beautifully. The crouton-like bread pieces maintained their crispness while scattered on top. You dip them in the sauce as you eat. The combination works wonderfully. The poached egg complements everything perfectly. The red wine sauce has deep, tangy flavors. It’s an unusual dish that lands firmly in the “like” category, leaving me satisfied.
Croix-Rousse Caviar
This was pleasant simplicity itself. The main ingredients are green lentil salad, Lyon sausage, and parsley vinaigrette. The lentils taste like lentils, and the Lyon sausage isn’t as distinctive as expected. It’s pleasantly salty and provides good balance. The parsley vinaigrette is a typical fresh and lively salad dressing with vinegar, oil, salt, pepper, and parsley. Familiar flavors. Delicious. I cleared every single lentil.
Even as starters, the portions were quite generous. This is partly why bouchon lyonnais set menus are expensive and why we usually don’t order full courses. About 1 starter, 2 mains, and 1-2 desserts is just the right amount of fullness for us.
3-3. The Main Event: Traditional Lyon Cuisine
Now for today’s star – the main courses.
Quenelle artisanale, sauce Nantua and Tablier de sapeur lyonnais, sauce gribiche. Visually, one passes and one fails. The breading is uneven. But it’s fried, so it should taste good, right?
Handmade Quenelle with Nantua Sauce
First, the bouchon lyonnais traditional dish quenelle – it has a very light fish cake texture. It contains pike fish, oven-baked brioche sauce crust, and handmade crayfish bisque sauce (Nantua sauce). I think it also has flour and butter, which are staples in Western cuisine. If it were less creamy, it would be even closer to fish cake. The texture falls somewhere between fish cake and pudding. Scattered around it are wild rice grains and carelessly collapsed vegetables.
Delicious. Once again, I scraped the plate clean. It’s a crowd-pleasing flavor with no polarizing elements.
Tablier de Sapeur
Tablier de sapeur lyonnais. The dish I stubbornly insisted on ordering. The dish that made the waiter worry about the customer’s wellbeing. It doesn’t look that bad visually, so why the concern?
Let me introduce the dish first – it’s a beef stomach dish. Specifically, it’s the first stomach chamber called “rumen,” breaded and fried like pork cutlet. Think of the beef stomach that goes into Korean ox stomach soup.
Looking at the slightly peeling breading, I expected the contents and coating to separate easily, but they stuck together better than expected. The breading doesn’t feel like the familiar Japanese/Western-style pork cutlet. I’m not sure how to describe it from the photo, but imagine when you coat a whole chicken with batter and electric-grill it. The breading was tasty.
The problem was the contents. The white flesh looked delicious, but taste aside, that smell I mentioned earlier was bothersome. The texture is chewy. Imagine chewing a cow’s entire stomach. Considering the thickness, it seems less tough than expected, suggesting it was tenderized, but I wish they’d also addressed the smell. Of course, this might be as odor-controlled as it gets. I ended up chewing and swallowing repeatedly with great effort.
Being brave can make you foolish – I took a big bite and chewed. Ancient Lyonnais probably never thought to mask the organ meat’s distinctive aroma. That must be the tradition. Should I call it a gamey smell? The moment I took that bite… ugh… it reminded me of unlimited pork organ restaurants in Moran Market. Not that I’ve been to one.
This isn’t a defeat for Koreans. It’s my personal defeat. I hope someone goes back and restores Korean prestige. I was wrong. I couldn’t finish it and left about 1/5. I force-fed myself 4/5 of it. The waiter kept coming by with a knowing smile, asking if everything was okay. I should have shared a piece with him.
This ranked as the 2nd worst dish I’ve eaten in Western Europe. For reference, 1st place goes to Andouille de Guémené (pork organ sausage) I had in 🔗Île-Grande (this bouchon lyonnais also sells it…), and 3rd place is Cochinillo Asado (roasted suckling pig) in 🔗Segovia.
3-4. Salvation Through Dessert
For dessert, we ordered chocolate pudding, crème brûlée, red bread, rice pudding (Riz au lait), and coffee.
My chocolate pudding was more like mousse than pudding. If you visit French supermarket dessert sections, you’ll find countless chocolate mousses – this had exactly that texture. It’s impossible for this not to be delicious. Not too sweet, with a clean finish that’s just perfect. Sweet and savory, it lingered pleasantly and completely washed away the lingering gamey smell.
My girlfriend ordered some kind of set. Was this the plate option? Everything comes out separately. This isn’t multiple individual orders – this entire composition is one dessert menu item. The coffee felt like Café Allongé with a strength somewhere between espresso and americano. The bread was unremarkable, while the crème brûlée and rice pudding (Riz au lait) were familiar delicious flavors. Crème brûlée has become so famous in Korea that I’ll skip the explanation. Rice pudding isn’t as mainstream yet, so I’ll briefly explain – imagine rice simmered thick in milk and sweetened with sugar? It doesn’t have the bouncy texture of pudding. The spooning sensation is similar to eating porridge but much softer and sweeter. From a Korean perspective of living on rice, it’s a strange combination, but it’s delicious.
3-5. Overall Assessment
65 euros. That’s about 105,000 won at current exchange rates. Why are exchange rates like this? When we visited, it was around 95,000 won. We ate until we were stuffed.
At the beginning of our month-and-a-half journey, this first bouchon lyonnais dining experience was half success, half failure. Calling it a failure might be excessive – it was my delicate nose and palate that hadn’t been toughened by Moran Market pork organ restaurants. So don’t let this review scare you away – I strongly encourage you to go and take on the challenge yourself.
What Diners Say About Auberge des Canuts - Bouchon Lyonnais
Bouchon Lyonnais Food Quality & Traditional Specialties
Quenelle – The Signature Dish
- Outstanding Quality When Done Right: Multiple reviewers describe Auberge des Canuts’s quenelle as outstanding, with guests consistently praising this signature Lyon dish as this bouchon lyonnais’s crown jewel
- Generous Portions: Diners frequently mention the quenelles as both excellent in taste and satisfying in size, often noting they’re large enough to share
- Authentic Pike Preparation: The traditional bouchon lyonnais pike fish preparation receives exceptional reviews from both locals and tourists who appreciate genuine Lyon techniques
- Consistency Issues: Some reviewers note occasional variations in preparation quality, particularly during busy periods
Traditional Bouchon Lyonnais Specialties
- Saucisson Excellence: Repeatedly praised as representing authentic bouchon lyonnais charcuterie traditions, with many noting the house-made quality
- Salade Lyonnaise Success: Consistently mentioned as a perfect example of traditional preparation with proper poached eggs and bacon
- Andouillette Polarization: This traditional sausage divides diners – adventurous eaters praise its authenticity while others find it challenging
- Tablier de Sapeur: The breaded tripe dish receives mixed reactions, beloved by traditionalists but avoided by squeamish diners
Ingredient Quality and Sourcing
- Fresh Local Products: Reviews consistently highlight Auberge des Canuts’s commitment to fresh local ingredients and seasonal preparation
- Authentic Sourcing: Diners appreciate the use of traditional suppliers and local producers
- Daily Market Influence: Menu variations based on market availability receive positive mentions from food enthusiasts
Service Experience – The Complete Picture
Exceptional Service Highlights
- Outstanding Staff Performance: Multiple reviews specifically praise certain team members for their exceptional welcome and professional service
- International Service Excellence: English-speaking guests consistently mention how particular Auberge des Canuts staff members enhance their dining experience
- Warm Traditional Welcome: Most diners report feeling genuinely welcomed in the traditional bouchon lyonnais manner
Service Challenges and Criticisms
- Significant Wait Times: Multiple reviews mention lengthy service, with specific examples of 19:00 reservations not being served until 20:00 or later
- Language Barriers: Several international visitors report staff reluctance to communicate in English, with some feeling unwelcome
- Inconsistent Attention: Busy periods result in neglected tables and delayed service, particularly frustrating for tourists with limited time
- Reservation Confusion: Some diners report booking difficulties and miscommunication about table availability
Staff Attitude Variations
- Best Case Scenario: When service works well, staff are described as lovely, attentive, and genuinely caring about the dining experience
- Challenging Experiences: Some reviews mention indifferent or rushed service, particularly toward non-French speakers
- Training Inconsistencies: Service quality varies significantly depending on which staff member serves your table
Pricing and Value Assessment
Value Proposition Analysis
- Excellent Value When Everything Works: Diners consistently praise this bouchon lyonnais’s price-quality ratio when food and service align properly
- Portion Size Satisfaction: Most agree that generous portions justify the pricing structure
- Tourist Area Premium: Some reviewers note prices are reasonable for Vieux Lyon location despite tourist area expectations
Cost Concerns
- Wine Pricing: Several reviews mention wine prices as steep compared to food costs
- Hidden Charges: Occasional mentions of unexpected additional costs for sides or modifications
- Tourist vs Local Pricing: Some suspicion that tourists may be charged differently, though not consistently reported
Authentic Bouchon Lyonnais Atmosphere & Location
Historic Setting Advantages
- Prime Cathedral Location: The position directly facing Saint-Jean Cathedral receives universal praise for its historic significance
- Authentic Bouchon Lyonnais Atmosphere: Auberge des Canuts’s interior décor and traditional setting consistently meet expectations for genuine Lyon dining
- Tourist Convenience: Location makes it easily accessible for Vieux Lyon exploration
Atmospheric Challenges
- Noise Levels: Several reviews mention this bouchon lyonnais authentique becomes quite loud during peak dining times
- Cramped Seating: Traditional building constraints result in tight table spacing that some find uncomfortable
- Tourist Saturation: Peak tourist seasons can compromise the authentic local atmosphere that many seek
International Guest Experience
Positive International Reception
- Korean Visitor Enthusiasm: Korean guests specifically recognize Auberge des Canuts as Lyon’s finest traditional bouchon lyonnais
- Spanish Satisfaction: Spanish reviews highlight both location excellence and service quality
- German Appreciation: German visitors consistently praise the authentic atmosphere and food quality
Cultural Barriers and Challenges
- Language Service Gaps: Non-French speakers report varying levels of accommodation from staff
- Cultural Expectation Mismatches: Some international visitors expect faster service typical of their home countries
- Menu Explanation Needs: Traditional bouchon lyonnais dishes require more explanation for international guests, not always provided
Practical Dining Considerations
Reservation Reality
- Essential for Peak Times: Advance booking is absolutely necessary for evening dining and weekend meals
- Seasonal Variations: Tourist seasons require booking weeks in advance for preferred times
- Cancellation Policies: Some confusion reported about reservation modification policies
Timing and Wait Management
- Traditional French Pacing: Meals follow leisurely French dining rhythm, which frustrates some international visitors
- Kitchen Capacity Limits: Popular dishes like quenelle require longer preparation times that aren’t always communicated
- Peak Hour Challenges: 12:00-14:00 and 19:30-21:30 periods see significant service delays
Dietary Accommodations
- Limited Vegetarian Options: Traditional bouchon lyonnais cuisine offers few vegetarian choices, clearly reflected in reviews
- Allergy Awareness: Mixed reports on staff knowledge of allergens and ingredient modifications
- Special Dietary Needs: Traditional menu structure doesn’t easily accommodate modern dietary restrictions
Overall Assessment from 630+ Reviews
The Consensus Positives
- Authentic Bouchon Lyonnais Experience: Consistently delivers genuine traditional Lyon dining when everything works properly
- Exceptional Signature Dishes: Quenelle and traditional specialties receive overwhelming praise when properly executed
- Historic Significance: Location and traditional preparation methods satisfy those seeking authentic cultural experiences
The Honest Negatives
- Service Inconsistency: Quality varies dramatically based on timing, staff, and customer nationality
- Wait Time Frustrations: Lengthy service times frustrate time-conscious diners, particularly tourists
- Language Accommodation Issues: International visitors don’t always receive the welcoming experience they expect
The Bottom Line Reality
Most reviewers conclude that when this authentic bouchon lyonnais Auberge des Canuts delivers on its promise, it provides an exceptional traditional Lyon dining experience. However, visitors should prepare for potential service delays, language barriers, and the realities of dining in a popular tourist location that maintains traditional bouchon lyonnais dining customs.